Winter memories of skiing in Europe and America
Don’t let the clear sunny skies deceive you! This was a nice little pause from the thick fog blanket at Crans Montana, Switzerland.
In search of the POW (powder)
I love to ski. The feeling of the cold wind brushing past my face feels like flying. I’m not an adrenaline junkie or daredevil, in fact, I’m the complete opposite! I’m terrified of heights and feel nervous whenever I’m on a chairlift with my feet dangling below me. Once I have the skis strapped on and the snow is beneath me, I relax a little and just go. That sense of fear when looking down a steeper than usual trail always gets me every time. As long as I control my movements, speed, and relax - going down that trail becomes exhilarating. It feels awesome to know that I went down a more challenging trail.
I started skiing in the winter of 2009. One of my friends from college was getting married in Sundance, UT. It was an eventful weekend filled with activities. The snowcapped mountains in the backdrop and the bucket list of wanting to learn how to ski lured me to sign up for a full day lesson at Park City, UT. As a child, I grew up roller skating and roller blading which turned into figure skating on ice. Having the balance of a figure skater and dancer, I learned how to ski pretty easily with guided instructions and exercises from ski instructors. It was more my fear of going too fast or seeing a steep trail that makes my heart pound and I lose confidence in my skills. I do remember some pretty embarrassing falls though. The first couple times I rode on a chairlift, I face planted as soon as the chairlift reached the top of the hill. Somehow I was convinced that the chairlift would just push me along onto the trail immediately without having to physically get up from a seated position to standing! Oh how silly of me to learn that lesson in the most ungraceful way!
Since 2009, I’ve skied 8 seasons in upstate New York, Poconos mountains, Vermont, Lake Tahoe, Switzerland, Austria, Finland, and Sweden.
Learning to ski and ski better…
In that video, I was taking a week of group ski lessons in Zermatt, Switzerland and was practicing the control of speed on the turns.
Group lessons are a great way to learn how to ski and practice your skills. But it is also a good idea to sign up for them if you’re on a solo ski trip and you are unfamiliar with the terrain especially if you aren’t confident about your skills. Ski instructors in well known places like Park City, Lake Tahoe, and larger ski areas in Switzerland are also very skilled teachers. As an added bonus: They tend to live in the area each season and know some good local spots to get some good food without the hefty visitors’ price tag.
Park City, Utah
Salt Lake City and Park City was the location of the 2002 Winter Olympics. I was still a figure skater during those Olympics and remember watching all the figure skating events in addition to some of the slalom ski events as well as the skeleton, luge, bobsled, ski jump, and curling. It was always a memorable Olympics because it was the year that Michelle Kwan was the favorite figure skater to win the gold. Nail biting competition, I was glued to the television. I thought that the location of the Olympics was just stunning and it was on my radar of Olympic locations to visit. Fast forward to 2009, I got my chance to visit the Olympic park and museum that was by the ski jump, bobsled, skeleton, luge facilities as well as learn to ski!
The Olympic ski resorts are Deer Valley Resort and Snowbasin.
The learn-to-ski group class that I was signed up for lasted an entire day and included the lift pass. The snow was pretty powdery soft and falling on this kind of snow doesn’t hurt. The weather in Utah is fairly dry, not too cold, and when I was there in January of 2009, it was pretty sunny too. The perfect conditions, “a bluebird day!”. I cannot stress how important it is to learn to ski (or snowboard) in a good resort with good weather.
Driving from Salt Lake City to Park City takes around 45 minutes in normal traffic. After a full day(s) of skiing, its probably wise to stay in Park City rather than worrying about driving back to Salt Lake City.
South Lake Tahoe, California/Nevada
South Lake Tahoe has two ski areas: Heavenly Mountain and Sierra at Tahoe
When I was planning which ski area to go to in 2011, I looked for a ski resort that had beautiful views of the lake, easy green and blue trails, and easy access to aprés-ski areas. Heavenly was the choice, and the right choice to make because that resort remains as one of my favorite ski vacations I’ve had. With abundant trails, stunning views, and plenty of spots for lunch and aprés ski activities. Its big ski resort atmosphere is perfect for a family ski trip or a group ski trip. A little something for everyone.
You can ski between California and Nevada in the same day. There are so many trails for all levels of skiers (however, I heard that this isn’t really a great spot for snowboarders since there’s quite a bit of traversing between lifts and trails that are rather flat).
While on that ski trip, I ate the best Southern creole food from a small local restaurant. Unfortunately, I am not sure if the restaurant still exists because I don’t remember the name of the place. However, after an extensive search on the internet, I found Sonneys BBQ Shack which has Southern bbq food and sounds so mouthwateringly good (especially after a long full day of skiing!). I wish I had documented my trips better back in 2011.
Vermont: Stratton, Killington, Okemo, Stowe
One of my favorite memories about skiing in the East Coast is taking day trips or weekend trips to Vermont for some POW-DAH! There are a number of bus operators that picked up skiers and boarders from various places in Manhattan at ungodly hours at 04:00 to Vermont ski resorts of Stratton, Killington, or Okemo and then return us by late dinner time. Another good memory is having a steaming bowl of ramen or Korean bbq beef as soon as we returned to the city. One of the things I miss about living in NYC is how late the city stays open in hubs like Korea town (32nd street), Times Square, East Village, West Village, etc.
At the end of ski runs in Vermont ski resorts, there’s usually a little hut selling fresh hot waffles and hot beverages. It was a tradition for me to get a nice hot Belgian sugar waffle at the end of the day before boarding the ski bus back to the city.
I wish I had better documentation of those frequent trips to Vermont. The best way to get from NYC to Vermont ski resorts is to find one of the charter bus companies that take skiers and boarders. Usually the bus tickets include roundtrip transportation and an all day lift ticket. With the exception of Stowe mountain resort, I used to get bus tickets to go on day trips to Stratton, Killington, and Okemo.
Here are a few of the bus companies I’ve used to get up to Vermont mountain resorts:
I’ve used Urban Sherpa Travel a number of times but they mostly are known for their trips to nearby mountains of Windham and Hunter mountains in upstate New York.
Paragon sports store in Union Square also organises ski trips by chartered bus.
OvrRide is also another ski bus charter company that goes to Vermont mountain resorts.
If you’re in the East Coast portion of the United States, I highly recommend checking out Stratton Mountain resort, Killington resort, Okemo, and Stowe resort. The snow quality in Vermont is much less icy than other mountain regions in the East Coast. Vermont as a state is also very charming with small towns, stunning natural landscapes, big mountains, friendly liberal residents, fresh dairy (the Ben & Jerry’s factory and museum is located near Burlington and Stowe!), log cabins, it is basically New England at its best in winter (or any season if you love the outdoors!).
For good activities for a group ski trip (if you’re traveling with family or a group of friends), I’d recommend Stratton Mountain resort and Stowe Mountain resort because these two resorts have a lot of aprés ski activities and lodging very close to the lifts.
The Matterhorn was the inspiration for the “Toblerone” mountain in the world famous chocolates that are triangular in shape
Zermatt, Switzerland home of the famous Matterhorn a.k.a. Toblerone mountain
You know those triangular shaped chocolates that come in milk, white, and dark chocolate varieties. These Swiss chocolates are world renowned and their signature shape comes from the Matterhorn located in the southern canton region of Valais/Wallis in Switzerland. This mountain is also the inspiration behind Disney park’s Matterhorn ride with the hidden Yeti’s during the twisty rollercoaster ride. It is probably the most famous ski area in the Swiss alps. With that being said, its a very popular town to visit during peak ski season.
The town of Zermatt is a car-free zone and only little electric small cars are allowed on the roads and the ski bus shuttles. Most people either take the shuttles, bike, or walk around the town. During the busy season the town is filled with tourists from all over the world. The ski terrain is vast covering three peak terrains and even an opportunity to ski across borders into the Italian side of the mountain. On windy days, this option is not possible.
If you’re traveling solo, a really good tip is to sign up for group lessons so you’re not skiing alone if you’re not familiar with the terrain and want to ski with people. I remember that when I first skied in Zermatt, I stayed for an entire week and the ski lessons spanned several days that were whole ski days so you spent a lot of time with the same group of people and the same instructor. Lunch was always fun because the ski instructor would take us to spots that were cozy or have beautiful views of the Matterhorn. It was nice because you can make some new friends while improving your ski skills, skiing beautiful terrain, and get inside tips on where to eat in the town of Zermatt from the recommendations of the instructor.
In the town of Zermatt there’s quite a mix of eateries at different price ranges from the crepe place (Stefanie’s creperie) that does both savoury and sweet crepes for takeaway, to traditional Swiss restaurants that offer fondue, raclette, flambé (check out Restaurant Spycher), to pub grub with the usual burger and fries, to fast-food kebabs and McDonald’s, to fancy restaurants in the five star hotels (check out The Omnia hotel). There’s a little of something for the kind of mood (and wallet) you want for aprés ski. One of my memorable meals was actually from a butcher shop on the Main Street (Bahnhofstrasse). In front of the Butcher shop, they were grilling sausages from the shop and serving it simply with a couple slices of bread. Simple but it was so delicious in the cold winter air! Its a brilliant idea for that butcher shop to set up a grill outside the shop and offer hamburgers, sausages,
Crans Montana, Switzerland
Crans Montana, Switzerland
Not too far from Zermatt in the same canton region of Valais/Wallis is Crans Montana. Though not the same vibe as the car-free quaint village of Zermatt, Crans Montana is split between the villages of Montana and Crans. With this ski resort area being located in the French speaking area of the canton, its clientele attracts a lot of French skiers but also an international upscale crowd with the multitude of designer boutiques and trendy aprés ski bars.
Both the villages of Montana and Crans can be accessed by car, bus, and funicular train that goes up the mountain from the small city of Sierre. During peak ski season, there are shuttle buses from the funicular station in Montana to take you to the various hotels in the area and the ski stations.
I had the privilege of studying my postgraduate degree in Hospitality Management at Les Roches Switzerland and could go skiing in Crans Montana on the weekends when I was free from studying and projects. It was an experience I won’t forget nor take for granted. Skiing in the alps is world-class and we were so lucky to be so close to a popular winter destination.
A tip if you’re traveling with bulky ski equipment is to utilise the SBB luggage service. You can check out their luggage services on their website. It is so convenient to use from Geneva airport or Zurich airport. I have used the luggage service to transport my luggages at the end of the semester so I don’t need to lug it all with me on the trains. According to the SBB website, they can even deliver your luggage from the airport to your door. That is fantastic service!
Just like Zermatt, there are plenty of aprés ski options within Crans and Montana. With a global offering of restaurants and pubs that open very late with a lively crowd (thanks to the young student population who loves to party hard!). The hotel offerings can vary from holiday apartment rentals to luxury boutique hotels. You won’t find any big chain hotel names here though (similar to Zermatt!) but you wouldn’t even miss the cookie-cutter hospitality because all the hotels in the area have a lot of charm. Some accommodation options that I can recommend Petit Paradis in nearby Bluche village, Hotel du Lac in the middle of Crans Montana, Crans Ambassador if you want a little modern luxury and a stunning view,
Skiing at Crans Montana
Austrian Alps. Axamer Lizum is a local mountain near Innsbruck that has trails for all levels
Innsbruck, Austria
Innsbruck is a ski-lovers city and was the site of 1964 and 1976 Winter Olympics and the 1984 and 1988 Winter Paralympics. The city is picturesque and easy to get around. When I went in 2015 to ski the Austrian alps, the city was filled with people walking around carrying skis and snowboards at the end of a day on the nearby slopes. Within the downtown city limits, you can find the Nordkette overlooking the city of Innsbruck. This peak is also accessible by the funicular train from downtown Innsbruck making it super easy and convenient. However, there are some drawbacks to Nordkette though, it is one of Europe’s steepest runs. I don’t know about you but I prefer not to have my heart beating so fast while trying to tear down a challenging run. I like long sloping trails where you are challenged but still able to enjoy the view. For adventure urban thrill seekers, you could spend the morning on the slopes and enjoy a hearty lunch in the city.
By basing yourself in the city, you can get to a variety of ski resorts within a short drive or even the public transport network. We chose the Axamer Lizum mountain resort because it was accessible by the bus. The ease of transport and variety of trails were the reason why we chose the resort. Upon arrival to the ski resort, the ski rental place and the lift ticket counter were very close to each other. One of my pet peeves is having to run around town for rentals and lift tickets. The check in was so easy at Axamer Lizum. Lift tickets are also purchased as a whole day, half day, or 3 hour tickets. These options make skiing here really budget friendly too if you don’t plan on skiing the whole day or you arrive around lunch time.
The aprés ski options are also plentiful if you base yourself within the city of Innsbruck as the Austrians are known for hearty meals, chill pubs and bars, and there are also plenty non-ski related activities for the non-skiers to enjoy. The museum at the top of Nordkette, the Olympic stadiums, winter hiking trails, ice skating, snow shoeing, walking tours, alpine zoo, castles, and so much more! Probably one of my favorite ski trips combined with sightseeing I have ever taken actually. I hope one day to return to the Innsbruck region and explore other ski regions in the area and spend some time exploring more of the city and surrounding nature.
Skiing in the arctic circle at Ounasvaara, Rovaniemi, Finland
Finland
Though much of the mountains I have skied in Finland aren’t as massive or big as the mountains found in the Alps, if you find yourself in Finland during the winter months. The country is covered in a blanket of white powdery snow. I don’t know about you but when I see powdery white pristine snow, I get the itch to ski. Finnish people embrace the quietness of winter and winter sports. From snow mobiles with snow mobile trails along the side of roads in winter instead of bike paths, to cross country skiing, to ice skating on flooded empty basketball or football fields, to ice hockey, ice fishing, figure skating, curling, basically you can find just about almost all of the winter sports done in Finland. Why fight the darkness and coldness of winter when you can embrace it right? I enjoy winter sports more than summer sports but when the temperatures dip well below -20 degrees celsius, I curse myself under multiple layers of clothing.
Skiing in the arctic circle at Ounasvaara, Rovaniemi, Finland
The days are very short in the winter up in Northern Finland where most of the ski areas are located but most places turn on lights so you can ski until the end of the day. If you’ve ever done night skiing in the US then the experience is very similar. The snow is a bit different when the sun goes down. A bit icier and the weather can change in an instant so you need to be prepared and dress warm! I can’t stress how important it is to dress smart and warm in these frigid temperatures.
Some Finnish mountains you can try:
I finally skied a black run! Ukkohalla was quaint and a family-friendly ski resort with nice facilities. The runs are easy enough to just cruise so the black runs were not that challenging.
Åre is the best Ski resort in Sweden and a popular destination in the winter. It is also very beautiful by a lake a lots of nice powder.
Åre, Sweden
Åre is the best and a very popular destination for skiing in Sweden. The surrounding nature is stunning, the snow quality is powdery and plenty of natural snow. The groomed trails are moderately steep but has trails for everyone from beginners to advanced and off-piste options too if you’re into that. The little town of Åre is also very quaint and has plenty of restaurants, bars, and shopping. There is plenty of hotels, guesthouses, and holiday apartments for most budgets.
I skied Åre right before the pandemic started getting bad in Europe and was quite nervous about getting home in March 2020. I was practicing social distancing and stayed away from crowded areas as well as consistently washing and disinfecting my hands and surfaces. During the 4 days that I was there, it snowed every single day so the snow quality was powdery but visibility wasn’t that great. Due to the windy and snowy conditions, I pretty much covered up in layers the entire time. I still enjoyed my trip and will one day plan another trip to Åre again someday.
Where I stayed: Hotel Granen
This hotel is a bit of a trek uphill if you have luggage from the train station. I took quite a while to drag my luggage uphill in very snowy conditions from the main train station to the hotel. Once I arrived, I was out of breath but was welcomed and the hotel was very cozy. There was a sauna as well with a open area to cool down after a hot aprés sauna session with cold water, towels, and lounge sofas. So bring a swimsuit! Because unlike the naked saunas in Finland, this sauna is co-ed and aprés ski sauna feels so nice especially after a whole day in the snowy blizzard conditions of the mountain. The restaurant also serves really good food. I ate my first dinner here at the hotel and was very pleased with the meal. Breakfast was also included in my stay and it was in a super cozy dining room and the spread was both hot and cold food offerings that will fuel you up for a day on the slopes.
I can recommend this hotel if you can drive up to the hotel or arrange a taxi to take you and your luggage to the hotel.
How to get to Åre: Flights to Öresund airport from anywhere in Sweden
I flew to Öresund airport from Malmö airport with a short transit in Stockholm because I didn’t want to spend a night on a train. Then from Öresund airport there was an airport shuttle bus to Åre. This was the fastest and most efficient way. And it was also the start of the Coronavirus pandemic so I didn’t want to spend a long time in a tube of recycled air on a train.
You can take a train right to Åre station from anywhere in Sweden if time is on your side and you don’t mind long train rides.
Eating in Åre: You won’t go hungry!
The White Guide is like the Michelin guide of restaurants and bars in Sweden and you can refer to the guide to pre-plan your nice dinners for aprés ski. Or you can just wing it and just show up either earlier or slightly later than the usual dinner crowd.
I really enjoyed the lunches I had at Hotel Fjällgården and went twice because the lunch offerings were so hearty and delicious!
I had a special reindeer pizza from Werséns but it is sadly no longer on the menu. I definitely enjoyed the pizza from this bustling place in the middle of town but it seems like the spot to reserve a table if you have a group of people.
Cold but happy to be out on the slopes in Åre.
I really love winter sports and spending time in snow and ice. All of these memories are very precious to me and thankful that I learned to ski in beautiful surroundings in Park City, Utah and have since skied different locations in the US and Europe. Skiing is not just for adrenaline junkies… I’m a far cry from one but I do love that feeling of gliding down a mountain of powdery snow. It feels like flying.
All opinions and pictures are property of Alaine Handa except otherwise stated. All rights reserved. (c)
